Inishowen is the most northerly peninsula in Ireland — a 250km loop that culminates at Malin Head, the most northerly point on the island. It's under-visited relative to its quality, which means you can drive some of the most dramatic coast roads in Donegal without the summer crowds that dog Kerry or Connemara. The caveat: Mamore Gap is one of the steepest and narrowest roads in Ireland, and it is emphatically not for large motorhomes.
Route overview
The Inishowen Peninsula sits in Co. Donegal, bounded by Lough Swilly to the west and Lough Foyle to the east. The nearest gateway city is Derry/Londonderry (in Northern Ireland, just across the Foyle from the peninsula) — making Inishowen accessible from both the Republic and Northern Ireland. The loop from Derry or Letterkenny runs north through Buncrana, up the west coast to Mamore Gap and Carndonagh, north to Malin Head, down the east coast via Moville and Greencastle, and back to the start via Muff.
The total loop is approximately 250km and takes 3–4 days at a relaxed pace. It can be done as the final section of a Wild Atlantic Way run northbound, or as a standalone trip from Derry/Londonderry with Bunk Campers' Belfast depot as the pickup point (Belfast to Derry is about 1.5 hours).
~250km loop from Derry/Letterkenny
3–4 days. Add 1 day for Derry/Londonderry if starting from Belfast.
Derry/Londonderry (NI) or Letterkenny (Co. Donegal)
Mamore Gap: STEEP and very narrow. Not for motorhomes over 7m or 3 tonnes. Non-negotiable.
Day-by-day itinerary
| Day | Route | Distance | Key stops |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Derry / Letterkenny → Buncrana | ~40km | Derry walled city (morning), Bridgend, Fahan, Buncrana (Swilly shore) |
| 2 | Buncrana → Mamore Gap → Carndonagh → Malin Head | ~80km | Mamore Gap (compact vehicles only), Inishowen 100 scenic drive, Carndonagh high cross, Malin Head |
| 3 | Malin Head → Moville → Greencastle | ~70km | Five Fingers Strand, Culdaff Beach, Moville, Greencastle Fort, Inishowen Head |
| 4 | Greencastle → Muff → Derry / return | ~50km | Muff village, Lough Foyle views, Derry optional return visit |
Malin Head (Day 2): Ireland's most northerly point is a windswept promontory with a Napoleonic-era watchtower and views that, on a clear day, extend to Scotland. The road to the head is narrow but passable for campervans. The car park at the head itself has limited space — arrive early. The landscape is treeless, wild, and completely unlike the green pastoral Ireland of tourist brochures. It's worth every kilometre.
The Inishowen 100: The "Inishowen 100" is a 100-mile/160km loop road around the peninsula, waymarked with brown signs. Following this route ensures you cover the key viewpoints and passes. The waymarking is comprehensive and a good substitute for a paper map on the more confusing rural sections.
Five Fingers Strand and Culdaff (Day 3): The east coast of Inishowen is quieter than the west and often overlooked. Five Fingers Strand — a long, remote beach — and the small village of Culdaff are worth the detour. Greencastle, at the mouth of Lough Foyle, has a small maritime museum and the ruins of a medieval castle.
Overnight stops
| Location | Type | Facilities | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buncrana area | Campsite | Moderate facilities | Main town on the western shore of Lough Swilly. Several accommodation options. |
| Malin Head area | Campsite/wild | Very basic | Small campsite near Malin Head. Basic but atmospheric. Wild camping also possible near the head. |
| Culdaff / Carndonagh | Campsite/informal | Basic | Fewer formal options in this section — wild camping tolerated on the east Inishowen coast. |
| Moville area | Campsite | Moderate facilities | More formal campsite infrastructure on the Lough Foyle eastern shore. |
Road notes for campervans
Inishowen has the most significant road warnings of any route in this guide. Read this section carefully before planning.
Mamore Gap: This is not an exaggeration — Mamore Gap is one of the steepest and narrowest mountain roads in Ireland. It rises sharply from Buncrana toward the head of the gap, with gradients that can exceed 20% and road widths that barely accommodate two small cars passing. For campervans and motorhomes:
- Vehicles over 7m long: Do not attempt Mamore Gap. The bends are physically impossible for longer vehicles.
- Vehicles over 3 tonnes: Not recommended — the road surface is old and the gradient is severe.
- Compact campervans and camper-cars (under 5.5m): Passable with care and confidence in narrow road driving. Do not attempt in fog or poor visibility.
- Standard campervans (5.5–6.5m): Marginal — some sections are very tight. Consider the alternative route around the gap via Clonmany instead.
The alternative to Mamore Gap is the R240 via Clonmany, which bypasses the gap entirely and adds about 15 minutes to the journey. This is the recommended route for any vehicle over 6m.
General Inishowen roads: The main Inishowen 100 route is on R-roads that are narrow but manageable for campervans. The further north you go, the narrower the roads become. Allow extra time — the roads don't permit fast progress and that's entirely appropriate.
Practical tips
- Fuel: Fill up in Buncrana before heading north. Carndonagh has fuel. North of Carndonagh, the options are limited — don't let your tank drop below half before Malin Head.
- Supermarkets: Buncrana has the best supermarket access on the peninsula. Carndonagh has a smaller supermarket. Stock up before heading to the Malin Head section.
- Mobile coverage: Patchy north of Carndonagh. Eir and Three have reasonable coverage on the main roads but dead zones exist, particularly around the head itself. Download offline maps.
- Derry/Londonderry: Worth a half-day stop if you're routing through. The walled city walk is free and takes 45 minutes. The Bogside murals are 10 minutes from the city walls on foot. The Museum of Free Derry provides context for the 20th-century history.
- Currency note: If routing through Derry/Londonderry, you're in Northern Ireland — sterling rather than Euro. Inishowen itself is in the Republic (Euro). Cards accepted almost everywhere but worth having both currencies if using cash.
Best time to visit
June–September for Inishowen — the campsite infrastructure is limited and the off-season facilities are even more sparse. The weather on the northernmost point of Ireland is notably more exposed than Kerry or Galway; even in June, pack for wind and rain. The trade-off is extraordinary light and genuinely wild landscape.
Inishowen in late September is excellent — the summer crowds (such as they are) have cleared, the weather can still be good, and the autumn colours in the Mamore Gap valley are exceptional.
Recommended operators for this route
- Bunk Campers (Belfast): Belfast to Derry is 90 minutes — making Bunk's Carryduff depot a practical pickup for an Inishowen loop. Confirm whether their fleet includes compact campervans suitable for Mamore Gap.
- Bunk Campers (Dublin): Dublin pickup for an Inishowen trip means a 4-hour drive north before you start — feasible on a 7-day hire if you use Day 1 for the drive to Donegal and start the peninsula proper on Day 2.
- Indie Campers (Dublin): Compact campervans handle the Inishowen roads better than larger motorhomes. If you're serious about driving Mamore Gap, a compact vehicle from Indie Campers is worth considering over a larger motorhome.