The Ring of Kerry is Ireland's most-visited scenic route and, for a campervan, one of the most rewarding. The key to doing it well is going anti-clockwise — opposite to the coach-tour convoys that clog the clockwise route every summer morning — and taking the Dingle Peninsula extension if you have even one extra day. Kerry is big enough and dramatic enough to justify the full week.
Route overview
The Ring of Kerry is a ~170km circular route around the Iveragh Peninsula in Co. Kerry, with Killarney as the natural base. The ring passes through Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahirciveen, Waterville, Sneem, and Kenmare before returning to Killarney. A standard circuit takes one full day of driving with stops, though most campervans benefit from 3–4 days to properly explore rather than ticking off the highlights at speed.
The Dingle Peninsula — reached via Castlemaine or the Tralee road from Killarney — adds a further 2 days and is, arguable, even more dramatic than the Ring of Kerry proper. The Slea Head Drive around the westernmost point of Dingle is one of the great Irish coastal roads, subject to vehicle size restrictions noted below.
~170km circuit. 1 day driving; 3–4 days with proper stops
+~80km. 2 extra days recommended
Killarney — best campsite cluster in Kerry; central to both routes
Drive anti-clockwise: Killarney → Killorglin → Glenbeigh. Coach tours go clockwise.
Day-by-day itinerary
| Day | Route | Distance | Key stops |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Killarney → Killorglin → Glenbeigh (anti-clockwise) | ~60km | Killorglin, Rossbeigh Beach, Glenbeigh village, Cahirciveen |
| 2 | Cahirciveen → Waterville → Sneem | ~80km | Waterville (Charlie Chaplin connection), Derrynane Bay, Staigue Fort, Sneem |
| 3 | Sneem → Kenmare → Killarney | ~60km | Kenmare town, Ladies View, Moll's Gap, Killarney National Park |
| 4 | Killarney → Castlemaine → Dingle town | ~70km | Tralee optional, Inch Beach, Dingle town |
| 5 | Dingle — Slea Head Drive (compact vehicles) or Conor Pass | ~50km loop | Slea Head viewpoint, Dunbeg Fort, Blasket Sound, Ventry Beach |
The anti-clockwise rule: The coach tours that swamp the Ring of Kerry in summer all operate clockwise — Killarney, Kenmare, Waterville, Cahirciveen, back to Killarney. Going anti-clockwise (the reverse direction) means you're passing the coaches head-on in narrow sections rather than tail-gating them for hours. The passing places are frequent enough that this works fine in a campervan — and you'll be at Waterville when the coaches are still at Kenmare, and at Cahirciveen when the coaches are at Waterville.
Killarney National Park: The park itself is worth a half-day at minimum. Muckross House, the Upper Lake, and the Gap of Dunloe (walkable or bikeable rather than driveable in a large vehicle) are within the park boundary. The campsite infrastructure around Killarney means this makes a sensible base for multiple nights while you explore on shorter drives.
Kenmare: The most underrated town on the Ring of Kerry. A proper market town with good food, independent shops, and a pleasant square. Worth an evening rather than a drive-through stop.
Overnight stops
| Location | Type | Facilities | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Killarney area | Multiple campsites | Full facilities | Best campsite cluster in Kerry. Several options to choose from. Book ahead in July/August. |
| Waterville | Campsite | Good facilities | On the bay, scenic location. Convenient for the southern section of the ring. |
| Cahirciveen area | Campsite | Good facilities | Good base for the northern-western section of the ring. |
| Kenmare | Campsite | Good facilities | Good facilities, pleasant town base for evenings out. |
| Dingle town | Campsite | Full facilities | Campsite on the edge of Dingle. Walk to town for food and evening. |
| Ventry / Slea Head area | Campsite/farm | Basic to moderate | Smaller options near Ventry Beach. More atmospheric than town but fewer facilities. |
Road notes for campervans
Ring of Kerry main circuit (N70/N71): The main ring road is generally good quality and manageable for campervans and motorhomes up to approximately 8m. The road narrows in several sections, particularly between Waterville and Cahirciveen, and around the mountain passes. A standard motorhome handles this fine at sensible speeds.
Slea Head Drive (Dingle Peninsula): This is where vehicle size really matters. Slea Head Drive is a single-track road in its western section, with passing places. The following applies:
- Compact campervans and camper-cars (under ~5.5m): Fine with care and patience at passing places.
- Standard campervans (5.5–6.5m): Manageable, but allow extra time and be prepared for waiting at narrow sections.
- Larger motorhomes (over 7m): Not recommended. The views from the public car parks at Slea Head are excellent — use those instead and save the single-track for a smaller vehicle on another trip.
Conor Pass (Dingle): An alternative to Slea Head for the Dingle Peninsula interior. The road over Conor Pass is steep and narrow but offers extraordinary views. Not recommended for motorhomes over 6m or for driving in poor visibility (cloud often sits on the pass even when valleys are clear).
Gap of Dunloe (Killarney): A famous valley road west of Killarney. Not suitable for motorhomes or campervans — it's a narrow track used primarily by jaunting cars, cyclists, and walkers. Don't attempt to drive through. Walk or cycle it instead.
Practical tips
- Fuel: Fill up in Killarney, Kenmare, or Kilorglin. Fuel stops on the Ring itself are available at Cahirciveen and Waterville, but prices can be higher in smaller towns.
- Supermarkets: Killarney has full supermarket options. Kenmare, Cahirciveen, and Dingle have smaller supermarkets adequate for restocking. Outside these towns, shops are basic.
- Mobile coverage: Generally good on the main ring road. Slea Head has some dead zones. Download offline maps before heading west on Dingle.
- Weather: Kerry is the wettest county in Ireland. Pack for all conditions regardless of the forecast. The silver lining: the landscape after rain, with low cloud on the MacGillycuddy's Reeks and light breaking through over the bays, is exceptional.
- Kerry Airport: If you're flying in specifically for a Kerry trip, Kerry Airport (Farranfore) is 15 minutes from Killarney by taxi. Killarney Campervans is the natural pickup operator for this routing.
Best time to visit
May–June: Our top recommendation for Kerry. Greener than any other time of year, good weather windows, and the coach-tour crowds have not yet peaked. Campsites available without booking weeks in advance.
July–August: Warmer but significantly more crowded. The anti-clockwise strategy becomes even more important. Book campsites weeks in advance. Killarney can feel overwhelmed on bank holiday weekends.
September: Excellent — quieter, warm days still possible, extraordinary light for photography. The best month for Dingle specifically.
October–April: Off-season. Some campsites closed. The route is driveable and dramatically atmospheric but facilities are thin and some visitor attractions have reduced hours.
Recommended operators for this route
- Killarney Campervans: The standout choice for this route. Kerry pickup means you start the Ring on Day 1. Essential if you're flying into Kerry or Cork airports.
- Bunk Campers (Dublin): Good choice if arriving Dublin and happy with the 3-hour drive down. Widest fleet choice — important if you need a specific vehicle size for Slea Head.
- Indie Campers (Dublin): Compact modern campervans handle all of this route. Unlimited km is handy for the longer WAW extension.
Touring in a classic VW? See the Ring of Kerry classic campervan guide at retrocamper.ie — specific notes on T2 speed, overheating on Kerry passes, and the breakdown network in the southwest.